Well, the time has come for my final blog posting about rock climbing. But rather than just ending I wanted to leave you with some thoughts, tip, and other resources that I have found useful during my time as an aspiring climber.
My first though is that if you have a desire to climb don't let other things stop you. Make it a family affair if not being able to find a sitter is a reason for not going. Also try to schedule time, because otherwise it is the one thing that always gets pushed aside because it is last on the list.
Some tips, when you go out to look for gear and new equipment, do your research on prices, quality even the shipping standards of the company. The one thing I can't stress enough is that if you have a local store like an REI don't hesitate to go in and try things on to see how it fits before ordering it elsewhere. You need to get the best deal you can because climbing quickly becomes and expensive sport if you are not careful. But PLEASE DO NOT go to your small hometown store and just try things on because of the higher price. Chances are if you talk with them they will price match and there is no other place that you can find the same knowledgeable staff as in a small local gear shop, so if you have the ten extra bucks to spend, do it there.
Next if you want more information one of the best online resources is Rock Climbing.Com. Your fair warning though is that there is such an abundance of material that you will be sifting though it for quite some time. But they have some of the best information you will find about anything climbing related. Another valuable online site is solely for shopping and getting the best deal. This is Spadout.com. They have anything you could think of for climbing plus tons of other outdoor activities including, biking, camping, snowboarding, and just a clothing section. I cant even begin to tell you how many tings I have found by searching through their sight and the amount of money I have saved.
Finally, I would like to say, go out climb and just have fun. Don't worry about the numbers, because it is so easy to get caught up in them that you will actually not be able to climb past a certain level. Climb safe, have a good time, and do your best to get someone else introduced to climbing.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
How to Belay
So you feel that you are comfortable enough with rock climbing to want to learn how to belay. This posting is going tot go through the step that you would take from start to finish followed by a video that will go through the process. In order to do this you will need a climbing rope, belay device, locking carabiner, and a harness. This is the equipment that I will be using to describe how to belay.
The process begins after the rope has been set up in a proper top rope setup by someone who is trained and has experience. At this point one end of the rope will have a figure eight tied into it and the other will have the slack pulled out of it. What you need to do is take the locking biner and place it through the ring in the belay device, which in this case is an ATC (air traffic controller). The two are put together in order to make sure that the entire device stays connected to the harness. Which is where the biner needs to connect next. So at this point you should have a locking carabiner attached to the belay loop of your harness with an ATC hanging off of it. (Figure 1) Then to get the rope attached you need to create a bend in a rope called a bight of rope. This gets pushed through the right side of the ATC if you are right handed. (Figure 2) The rope end going up to the anchors should be coming out of the top side and the free end should come out of the bottom of the ATC. At this point you are ready to begin to learn how to belay.
Figure 1.
Figure 2.
The process works by pulling out the slack in the rope. The goal is to get the slack to come out the bottom of the ATC. What this does is gives the climber a more confident feel in the rope. But if you were to just try and hold it in your hand there is a good potential that they you will get a major rope burn. Therefore you need to do what is called locking off. You will take your right hand which is on the rope and slap you right thigh. The go under your right hand with your left hand, this should almost feel as if you are holding a baseball bat on your thigh. The you slide your right hand back up toward the ATC freeing you up to take more slack out of the rope. The video below goes through the step by step process of how this works.
However once you climber has reached the top you need to know how to safely let them down. IN order to do this you need to verbally make sure they are ready to come down and even get a second or third conformation if you are unsure of the answer you heard. Next take as much slack out of the rope as you can this puts less stress on the rope and makes the climber feel more at ease. The without taking either hand of the rope slowly allow it to slip through your hands in order to control the descent of the climber. Upon them reaching the ground and having stable footing your climber will most likely appreciate some extra slack in the rope.
In order to practice this before trying it with a person on the end of a rope, have you partner take out the majority of the slack and hold it in their hand. Then you can simply pull rope through the ATC as they apply resistant giving you the feeling of someone being on the other end. That and it will provide you with less fear of someone hanging on the rope.
Here is a step by step video of how the process works. However, in the end the best way to become proficient is to practice and get professional instruction.
The process begins after the rope has been set up in a proper top rope setup by someone who is trained and has experience. At this point one end of the rope will have a figure eight tied into it and the other will have the slack pulled out of it. What you need to do is take the locking biner and place it through the ring in the belay device, which in this case is an ATC (air traffic controller). The two are put together in order to make sure that the entire device stays connected to the harness. Which is where the biner needs to connect next. So at this point you should have a locking carabiner attached to the belay loop of your harness with an ATC hanging off of it. (Figure 1) Then to get the rope attached you need to create a bend in a rope called a bight of rope. This gets pushed through the right side of the ATC if you are right handed. (Figure 2) The rope end going up to the anchors should be coming out of the top side and the free end should come out of the bottom of the ATC. At this point you are ready to begin to learn how to belay.
Figure 1.
Figure 2.The process works by pulling out the slack in the rope. The goal is to get the slack to come out the bottom of the ATC. What this does is gives the climber a more confident feel in the rope. But if you were to just try and hold it in your hand there is a good potential that they you will get a major rope burn. Therefore you need to do what is called locking off. You will take your right hand which is on the rope and slap you right thigh. The go under your right hand with your left hand, this should almost feel as if you are holding a baseball bat on your thigh. The you slide your right hand back up toward the ATC freeing you up to take more slack out of the rope. The video below goes through the step by step process of how this works.
However once you climber has reached the top you need to know how to safely let them down. IN order to do this you need to verbally make sure they are ready to come down and even get a second or third conformation if you are unsure of the answer you heard. Next take as much slack out of the rope as you can this puts less stress on the rope and makes the climber feel more at ease. The without taking either hand of the rope slowly allow it to slip through your hands in order to control the descent of the climber. Upon them reaching the ground and having stable footing your climber will most likely appreciate some extra slack in the rope.
In order to practice this before trying it with a person on the end of a rope, have you partner take out the majority of the slack and hold it in their hand. Then you can simply pull rope through the ATC as they apply resistant giving you the feeling of someone being on the other end. That and it will provide you with less fear of someone hanging on the rope.
Here is a step by step video of how the process works. However, in the end the best way to become proficient is to practice and get professional instruction.
Monday, April 13, 2009
Getting Footwork Down
At this point you have only gotten half of the puzzle on how to get up the rock. That half comes from your hands and upper body, the next part is on your lower half. More specifically the feet. Here I must also make a critical plea, if you want to enjoy climbing to the fullest and get the most you can out of your abilities, ask to borrow a pair of rock climbing shoes. The expense is usually a few dollars to rent them along with the usual stink that cannot be gotten rid of. Plus they give you the ability to almost stick to the rock as if they had been glued in certain instances. In order to give you a continual flow and present the information in the best way it will occur in the same type of format with a name and description followed by a picture for some of the footholds.
Smear- Is used when no actual place is available to serve as a foot hold. Instead what you do is essentially create your own. This is achieved by using the flat toe potion of the shoe and trying to get as much of the shoe surface to contact the rock face. One example of how this looks on a vertical wall is in the picture below. Followed by how it would appear on a more sloped surface.
Edge- Either an inside or outside edge are practically the same the only difference is which part of the shoe you use to hold you there. I will describe an inside edge and you will be able to do the same thing just with the outside of the shoe to create the other type. What needs to happen is take just the small inside part of the shoe, about where the big toe meets the rest of the foot and place this section of the shoe onto the rock.
Toe in- Is generally used when there are pockets to place a toe in. Do your best to try and get as much of your foot into the hole in order to try and get a sturdy place to stand. In the image below the pocket is very small hence the reason only a small piece of the toe is in but it is still creating very good friction.
Heel hook- this is generally used to allow you to free your arms for movement. Although it can be used to help pull you up an overhanging rock. It will work best to get the majority of your heel over the hold you plan to use and use your hamstring like a bicep and curl inward. This move looks like the image below.
In order to use most of these at their optimal level you must work on body position. This frequently occurs naturally with your body telling you which way it wants to lean. Usually against the hold to give you the best tension without engaging a lot of muscles the key to long term climbing is to rely on you skeletal structure to hold you rather than your muscles. Another important note is to try and keep your foot level which does the same basic skeleton work and also to make the best possible angles and friction for t your footwork. Another thing you will notice in nearly all the picture is a trend to have the heal and toes create a parallel line wiht the ground no matter how far below it is. This allows your leg to stay less stressed and funtion at its best.
Come back for next weeks posting on how to belay.
Smear- Is used when no actual place is available to serve as a foot hold. Instead what you do is essentially create your own. This is achieved by using the flat toe potion of the shoe and trying to get as much of the shoe surface to contact the rock face. One example of how this looks on a vertical wall is in the picture below. Followed by how it would appear on a more sloped surface.
Edge- Either an inside or outside edge are practically the same the only difference is which part of the shoe you use to hold you there. I will describe an inside edge and you will be able to do the same thing just with the outside of the shoe to create the other type. What needs to happen is take just the small inside part of the shoe, about where the big toe meets the rest of the foot and place this section of the shoe onto the rock.
Toe in- Is generally used when there are pockets to place a toe in. Do your best to try and get as much of your foot into the hole in order to try and get a sturdy place to stand. In the image below the pocket is very small hence the reason only a small piece of the toe is in but it is still creating very good friction.
Heel hook- this is generally used to allow you to free your arms for movement. Although it can be used to help pull you up an overhanging rock. It will work best to get the majority of your heel over the hold you plan to use and use your hamstring like a bicep and curl inward. This move looks like the image below.
In order to use most of these at their optimal level you must work on body position. This frequently occurs naturally with your body telling you which way it wants to lean. Usually against the hold to give you the best tension without engaging a lot of muscles the key to long term climbing is to rely on you skeletal structure to hold you rather than your muscles. Another important note is to try and keep your foot level which does the same basic skeleton work and also to make the best possible angles and friction for t your footwork. Another thing you will notice in nearly all the picture is a trend to have the heal and toes create a parallel line wiht the ground no matter how far below it is. This allows your leg to stay less stressed and funtion at its best.
Come back for next weeks posting on how to belay.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Making Movement Easy
So now that you have the basic knowledge and have hopefully given climbing a try its not time to learn how to make it even easier. You have no doubt found that there are holds that are more difficult to hang onto than others, because of their shape, size, or texture. This posting will help you to learn how to use each of the different type of holds that you will encounter on a climbing wall. As this goes you will see the title for the type of handhold you will be using. Followed by a description of how to properly use it. Then finally a picture of what it may look like to help serve as an extra reference.
Open Grip- This is the least stressful method you can use to latch onto a hold. It requires that the hand stay relaxed and open as if it were lying palm down on a table. Then to hold onto the hold the four fingers wrap over the hold, being sure to align the thumb with the rest of the fingers. It appears much like that which you see in the picture. It can be applied to most types of holds to reduce strain on the joints.
Now that we have covered some of the basic holds that go into rock climbing, come back next week to learn how to make the best use of your feet. Along with footwork we will also be discussing overall body position.
Hope to see you on the rocks soon.
Open Grip- This is the least stressful method you can use to latch onto a hold. It requires that the hand stay relaxed and open as if it were lying palm down on a table. Then to hold onto the hold the four fingers wrap over the hold, being sure to align the thumb with the rest of the fingers. It appears much like that which you see in the picture. It can be applied to most types of holds to reduce strain on the joints.
Jug- Is a large hold that is shaped like a bowl that has been cut and glued to the wall. This creates a pocket that the four fingers can easily reach into providing lots of surface area to hold onto. The hold leaves you with the choice of using your thumb for extra hold or not in order to help preserve your fingers.
Crimp- A crimp is generally used on small hold that would only appear to be the width of a dime laying flat. Which equates to about a half an inch. For these holds the fingers are bunched up and the finger tips are about parallel with the first knuckles on your hands. The option of what to do whit the thumb once again comes into play. You can either leave it out to the side or rest it on top of the other fingers allowing you to better keep your fingers in place.
Thumb Pinch- Is used when you a a more vertical oriented hold that cannot be gripped from a pulling down position. What you do is grasp the hold between the inside of your thumb and the side of the index finger that can easily place the hold in a stable position.
Finger Pinch- Is just like that of the thumb pinch except it is between the finger tips and the pad of the thumb.
Mono/two digit pocket- These are small pockets in the rock that almost resemble a hole that someone would drill. They vary in size and allow different numbers of fingers into them. The goal in using them is to try and get up two the second knuckle into.
Side Pull- Is using a hold that is to the left or right allowing the climber to reach out and lean their body weight against the hold. This would look something like holding onto a fence post and leaning you body away from it and getting your feet as close as possible to the bottom of the post. You simple use you weight to hold you there.
Palming- Is used on just about any hold that does not allow your fingers to grasp the hold, instead your entire hand uses friction to keep you in place.
Under Cling- This is used muck like the jug hold, except that the hold is upside down. Meaning that instead of pulling down on the hold you need to pull out away from it in order to gain leverage and make good use of the hold.
Under Cling- This is used muck like the jug hold, except that the hold is upside down. Meaning that instead of pulling down on the hold you need to pull out away from it in order to gain leverage and make good use of the hold.
Now that we have covered some of the basic holds that go into rock climbing, come back next week to learn how to make the best use of your feet. Along with footwork we will also be discussing overall body position.
Hope to see you on the rocks soon.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Harness Up Already!
So last time we talked about how to get out and try rock climbing, and by hopefully you have. But, if your like a lot of people you are nervous because you don't know anything and don't want to look like a fool. Well put your minds at ease because you will not look like one, especially if you read on because I am going to to start to finish on how to actually get onto the rock.
So after you have arrived and done all the paperwork and those little details, chances are you are going to be renting a harness, shoes and possibly a helmet. So here is how you get into your harness. First you will notice that there are three large loops. Two of which are the same size and one a little larger. The largest of the three is the waist, sometimes also distinguished by a different labeling or smaller loops on the sides of it. You want to hold the waist belt in your hands and lower the entire harness toward the ground that way you can slip it on as if it were a pair of shorts. You will also notice a fourth much smaller loop known as the belay loop. The belay loop needs to be oriented to the front as if it were a zipper on the pretend shorts.
Once both feet are in the harness you can pull it up to your waist, which should be just below your belly button. Note this is higher than we generally wer our pants, but it is out of saftey that we do this so please make sure that it is where it needs to be. From here you need to tighten the waist stap so that it does not fall back to the ground. Start by just pulling the free end of the strap until it is tight. Tight meaning you should only be able to get two fingers between your hip and you harness. You then need to do the same things with the leg loops. AT THIS POINT YOUR HARNESS IS ON BUT NOT SAFE TO CLIMB IN! What needs to happen now is what is called doubling back. This is the process of re threading the strap back through the buckle to ensure that it locks on itself and will not slip out. Prior to starting the process you will notice that there is an opening at each side of the buckle essentially creating an "O" for oh no, this is not safe. To remedy this take the end of the strap and pass it through the farthest opening in the buckle, and pull tight. It will create a "C" shape meaning it is closed and safe. This process will also need to be done to the leg loops. At this point you are ready to get going.
So head to the climbing surface and get mentally prepared, try setting goals for yourself. But do not start climbing. you fist need to be hooked into the rope. However the methods preferred by different climbing establishments vary so check and see the particular method they want you to use. After being hooked or tied in there is a basic procedure that needs to be checked EVERY time before getting started. First is the buddy check. This is where you will check to make sure you belayer is doubled back, and has the belay device properly attached. (Actual belaying will be covered in a future posting). Then they will do the same for you. after this careful inspection you are ready to go. But in order to make sure that the rope system is ready there are a series of four short commands to make sure everyone is on the same page. The dialogue goes as follows:
CLIMBER: On Belay?
BELAYER: Belay Is On.
CLIMBER: Climbing?
BELAYER: Climb On.
Now get going up the wall. After you have reached the top of the wall or your comfot limit, and are ready to come down communicate with your belayer. Advise them you are finished and you should feel them tighten up the rope. Now you are going to wait for an okay signal that they have you on the rope. After receiving this signal, you need to just let go of the holds and sit back in you harness as if ti were a chair. By walking you feet down the wall you will avoid banging into holds and injuring yourself.
Hopefully you now feel a bit more confident and are ready to get out and push your limits. Next weeks lesson will be on the art of moving yourself up the holds much like a monkey in the rain forest, being naturally fluid and balanced.
So after you have arrived and done all the paperwork and those little details, chances are you are going to be renting a harness, shoes and possibly a helmet. So here is how you get into your harness. First you will notice that there are three large loops. Two of which are the same size and one a little larger. The largest of the three is the waist, sometimes also distinguished by a different labeling or smaller loops on the sides of it. You want to hold the waist belt in your hands and lower the entire harness toward the ground that way you can slip it on as if it were a pair of shorts. You will also notice a fourth much smaller loop known as the belay loop. The belay loop needs to be oriented to the front as if it were a zipper on the pretend shorts.
Once both feet are in the harness you can pull it up to your waist, which should be just below your belly button. Note this is higher than we generally wer our pants, but it is out of saftey that we do this so please make sure that it is where it needs to be. From here you need to tighten the waist stap so that it does not fall back to the ground. Start by just pulling the free end of the strap until it is tight. Tight meaning you should only be able to get two fingers between your hip and you harness. You then need to do the same things with the leg loops. AT THIS POINT YOUR HARNESS IS ON BUT NOT SAFE TO CLIMB IN! What needs to happen now is what is called doubling back. This is the process of re threading the strap back through the buckle to ensure that it locks on itself and will not slip out. Prior to starting the process you will notice that there is an opening at each side of the buckle essentially creating an "O" for oh no, this is not safe. To remedy this take the end of the strap and pass it through the farthest opening in the buckle, and pull tight. It will create a "C" shape meaning it is closed and safe. This process will also need to be done to the leg loops. At this point you are ready to get going.
So head to the climbing surface and get mentally prepared, try setting goals for yourself. But do not start climbing. you fist need to be hooked into the rope. However the methods preferred by different climbing establishments vary so check and see the particular method they want you to use. After being hooked or tied in there is a basic procedure that needs to be checked EVERY time before getting started. First is the buddy check. This is where you will check to make sure you belayer is doubled back, and has the belay device properly attached. (Actual belaying will be covered in a future posting). Then they will do the same for you. after this careful inspection you are ready to go. But in order to make sure that the rope system is ready there are a series of four short commands to make sure everyone is on the same page. The dialogue goes as follows:
CLIMBER: On Belay?
BELAYER: Belay Is On.
CLIMBER: Climbing?
BELAYER: Climb On.
Now get going up the wall. After you have reached the top of the wall or your comfot limit, and are ready to come down communicate with your belayer. Advise them you are finished and you should feel them tighten up the rope. Now you are going to wait for an okay signal that they have you on the rope. After receiving this signal, you need to just let go of the holds and sit back in you harness as if ti were a chair. By walking you feet down the wall you will avoid banging into holds and injuring yourself.
Hopefully you now feel a bit more confident and are ready to get out and push your limits. Next weeks lesson will be on the art of moving yourself up the holds much like a monkey in the rain forest, being naturally fluid and balanced.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Just Getting Started?
So you think that you want to give rock climbing a try? Well, I absolutely think you should, and I am here to act as a support and guide to get you the information that you need in order to enjoy rock climbing as much as I do.
This blog is going to go through the steps that that make it the easiest to go from zero climbing experience to becoming a safe and proficient climber. This process begins with you deciding to take the first steps and try rock climbing. The first question that comes from that desire to try is how and where? Well, most large cities have a climbing gym where you can take some basic classes to get you acquainted to the sport, these courses are usually at minimal cost and only require a willingness to try, because they will generally provide all the equipment that you could need. Another option if you are a college student is to check out your universities recreational center to see if they have a climbing wall. Chances are if they do it is free and staffed by students who know and enjoy climbing. This is the best combination because often times the best resource for information and guidance are those who enjoy rock climbing.
These two options though generally involve indoor climbing which is a more easily controlled environment in terms of weather and lighting, however they are not nearly as much fun as the thrill of climbing a rock face where at the top you can look out over the land and get an entirely new perspective on the landscape. So if you are able to either take a class or or sign up wiht an on campus group that takes students at minimal cost. Both are much better options than climbing indoors unless you absolutely must.
There are though two warnings that I must inform my readers of. The first is that rock climbing can be a a dangerous sport where you take risks and need to be aware of those risks. The second thing is that if you choose to try rock climbing chances are you will become addicted and it will become your primary means of activity and friends, so now that you have been warned get out there and give it a try.
Come back next week for the next blog posting where I will discuss how to move on the rock.
This blog is going to go through the steps that that make it the easiest to go from zero climbing experience to becoming a safe and proficient climber. This process begins with you deciding to take the first steps and try rock climbing. The first question that comes from that desire to try is how and where? Well, most large cities have a climbing gym where you can take some basic classes to get you acquainted to the sport, these courses are usually at minimal cost and only require a willingness to try, because they will generally provide all the equipment that you could need. Another option if you are a college student is to check out your universities recreational center to see if they have a climbing wall. Chances are if they do it is free and staffed by students who know and enjoy climbing. This is the best combination because often times the best resource for information and guidance are those who enjoy rock climbing.
These two options though generally involve indoor climbing which is a more easily controlled environment in terms of weather and lighting, however they are not nearly as much fun as the thrill of climbing a rock face where at the top you can look out over the land and get an entirely new perspective on the landscape. So if you are able to either take a class or or sign up wiht an on campus group that takes students at minimal cost. Both are much better options than climbing indoors unless you absolutely must.
There are though two warnings that I must inform my readers of. The first is that rock climbing can be a a dangerous sport where you take risks and need to be aware of those risks. The second thing is that if you choose to try rock climbing chances are you will become addicted and it will become your primary means of activity and friends, so now that you have been warned get out there and give it a try.
Come back next week for the next blog posting where I will discuss how to move on the rock.
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