Making Movement Easy

So now that you have the basic knowledge and have hopefully given climbing a try its not time to learn how to make it even easier. You have no doubt found that there are holds that are more difficult to hang onto than others, because of their shape, size, or texture. This posting will help you to learn how to use each of the different type of holds that you will encounter on a climbing wall. As this goes you will see the title for the type of handhold you will be using. Followed by a description of how to properly use it. Then finally a picture of what it may look like to help serve as an extra reference.

Open Grip- This is the least stressful method you can use to latch onto a hold. It requires that the hand stay relaxed and open as if it were lying palm down on a table. Then to hold onto the hold the four fingers wrap over the hold, being sure to align the thumb with the rest of the fingers. It appears much like that which you see in the picture. It can be applied to most types of holds to reduce strain on the joints.

Jug- Is a large hold that is shaped like a bowl that has been cut and glued to the wall. This creates a pocket that the four fingers can easily reach into providing lots of surface area to hold onto. The hold leaves you with the choice of using your thumb for extra hold or not in order to help preserve your fingers.

Crimp- A crimp is generally used on small hold that would only appear to be the width of a dime laying flat. Which equates to about a half an inch. For these holds the fingers are bunched up and the finger tips are about parallel with the first knuckles on your hands. The option of what to do whit the thumb once again comes into play. You can either leave it out to the side or rest it on top of the other fingers allowing you to better keep your fingers in place.

Thumb Pinch- Is used when you a a more vertical oriented hold that cannot be gripped from a pulling down position. What you do is grasp the hold between the inside of your thumb and the side of the index finger that can easily place the hold in a stable position.

Finger Pinch- Is just like that of the thumb pinch except it is between the finger tips and the pad of the thumb.

Mono/two digit pocket- These are small pockets in the rock that almost resemble a hole that someone would drill. They vary in size and allow different numbers of fingers into them. The goal in using them is to try and get up two the second knuckle into.

Side Pull- Is using a hold that is to the left or right allowing the climber to reach out and lean their body weight against the hold. This would look something like holding onto a fence post and leaning you body away from it and getting your feet as close as possible to the bottom of the post. You simple use you weight to hold you there.

Palming- Is used on just about any hold that does not allow your fingers to grasp the hold, instead your entire hand uses friction to keep you in place.

Under Cling- This is used muck like the jug hold, except that the hold is upside down. Meaning that instead of pulling down on the hold you need to pull out away from it in order to gain leverage and make good use of the hold.

Now that we have covered some of the basic holds that go into rock climbing, come back next week to learn how to make the best use of your feet. Along with footwork we will also be discussing overall body position.

Hope to see you on the rocks soon.